Jason Palmer, CPA, CITP

Cyber Insurance Auditing

Car Tech – The New 2014 Range Rover Sport – Naught to 60 in 5.0 Seconds

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2014 Range Rover Sport

2014 Range Rover Sport

The 2014 Range Rover Sport is a marriage of technology and machine like no other.  This is what happens when you take the DNA of the family of most capable of sport utility vehicles on the planet and merge it with the latest advances in design, performance, safety, and technology.

This is the fastest Land Rover ever thanks to an all new aluminum architecture that has reduced the weight of the Sport by about 800lbs.  Add to this an advanced ZF eight-speed transmission connected to a sixth-generation, twin vortex, supercharged 510bhp 5-litre V8 and you get 0-60mph acceleration in 5.0 seconds.  Now you can leave a significant number of your friends “in-the-dust” at the stop light.  No longer do you have to sacrifice fun and performance for SUV capability and ruggedness.  The synergy is complete in the 2014 NEW Range Rover Sport.

I attended the world premier launch party in Manhattan tonight and what makes the 2014 Range Rover Sport exceptionally interesting to me is the leap forward in vehicle technologies.  These include almost every new innovation in automotive safety and convenience available.

In addition to “Lane Departure Warning” which will vibrate the steering wheel if the vehicle starts to drift from the lane without an obvious lane change, Land Rover added in “Traffic Sign Recognition.”  This feature uses a camera to identify traffic signs, regardless of position: left, right, or overhead, and displays it in the Instrument Cluster.  As the vehicle moves away from the sign, the displayed sign fades away.  Land Rover also brings back a classic “Automatic High Beam Assist” that automatically switches the head lights between high and low by tracking oncoming head lights from approaching vehicles and the taillights of those ahead of you.

A great new feature for those of us who frequent self-park garages is something called “Flank Guard.”  Think of this as proximity radar for your car.  With the addition of extra sensors on the front and rear bumpers, the 2014 Range Rover Sport does a better job of warning you about pillars, barriers, and other vehicles.  It does so through the central instrument cluster by displaying a graphical image indicating the proximity of objects with distance bars.  It combines this with your current steering angle and trajectory to warn of any impending impact.  These sensors are also used for traditional “Reverse Traffic Detection” to warn of any objects or people behind the vehicle while backing up.

Land Rover has taken “Adaptive Cruise Control” to a new level.  This new function operates both at lower speeds and even when the vehicle is stationary to help keep the vehicle at a pre-set time gap (distance) to the vehicle in front of you.  An enhancement called “Queue Assist” will even allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop in a traffic jam.  In addition, Land Rover has introduced an “Adjustable Speed Limiter Device” which enables you to set a personal maximum speed limit.  This should help drivers stay within the “acceptable” speed limit when transiting the many traffic enforcement zones throughout the North East.

Related driver assistance technologies include “Blind Spot Monitoring” using side mounted radar sensors to alert the driver when other vehicles enter in to blind spots.  And, a brand new technology called “Closing Vehicle Sensing” which scans much further behind your vehicle to detect fast approaching vehicles from behind moving in to your blind spot that may interfere with a lane change.

Perhaps my absolute favorite technological feature is Land Rover’s “Surround Camera System” which in addition to showing a 360 degree view around the vehicle also includes trailer reverse park guidance showing the track of both the vehicle and the trailer.  The 360 degree view is especially useful while parallel parking in New York City as frequently there are railings around trees, errant garbage cans and trash that spill over the curb that can potentially ding your vehicle.  It also takes 100% of the guess work out of exactly how much more room you have before you “tap” the car in front or behind you, or the curb.

Land Rover moves in to the next generation of Artificial Intelligence with “Advanced Park Assist” functions.  These include “Park Assist” which both helps identify if that parking space is really big enough for you to squeeze in to, then automatically steers your vehicle in to it.  “Park Exit” which steers you out of that tight parking space back to the road; and, “Perpendicular Park” which helps you back in to a space and makes sure that you have enough clearance to open the doors.

“There’s an App for that.”  The 2014 New Range Rover Sport is the first Land Rover to have a 3G WiFi Hotspot and the Land Rover Smart App.  You will be able to check how much Fuel is in the tank, see your trip history, find your Land Rover if you have forgotten where you parked, (very useful in large mall parking lots), and it will alert you if you have forgotten to lock your vehicle.  Your Range Rover Sport will be fully connected to a real-time information system and passengers will be able to browse the Web.  (For more information on Wi-Fi®, see my article, “Mobile Communications Technology Overview.”)

Land Rover is also introducing “InTouch” which appears to be a distinctly British implementation of what GM markets as “OnStar.”  The “InTouch” system will enable you to summon help without a phone and automatically call for help if it detects a serious accident or air bag deployment.

For the “Top Gun” Fighter Pilot in all of us, the Range Rover Sport will be the first Land Rover to offer a “Heads-up Display” which will project key vehicle and navigation data directly in to the drivers view.  This is the one feature that I have always wanted just for the pure “cool toy” factor.  Now if they can just add in the James Bond style missiles and machine guns… or at least perhaps innocuous laser beams that you could fire at the cars in front of you to pretend that you are clearing the road of errant drivers, it would make driving really fun.

The 2014 New Range Rover Sport is perhaps one of the most technologically advanced vehicles soon to be on the road.  Land Rover has truly pulled ahead of the competition and is now the absolute leader in the Sport Luxury SUV class.

The 2014 New Range Rover Sport should start to arrive in Land Rover showrooms in September of 2013.  For more information, visit https://newrangeroversport.landrover.com/us/en#launch or http://www.landrover.com

One final note:  For those of you like me that may prefer the Land Rover LR4, the redesign is due for the 2015 model year.  At the launch event, I met Gerry McGovern, Design Director & Chief Creative Officer of Land Rover, who told me personally, (loosely translated from British speak), “…It will knock your socks off…”  And also, John Edwards, Global Brand Director, Land Rover, that the Land Rover LR4 is at the core of everything Land Rover and that the next generation will be similarly, if not more impressive in its’ evolution. (I gave him my card and perhaps I will get invited to a preview focus group or at least to the launch party.)  I am counting down the days…

Hurricane Tech – Make your Smartphone a WiFi Hot Spot with Tethering

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WiFi TetherWhen the Power is out, if you do not have a Generator, access to the Internet through your home or office Wired or WiFi Router will be out as well.  Fortunately, Smartphones and many WiFi capable devices such as iPad’s, eReader’s, and Notebook Computers can run on Battery Power when Electrical Power is not available.

A technology called “Tethering” allows many Smartphones to share their Internet data connection capability through the embedded WiFi in the Smartphone.  This enables the Smartphone to become a mobile Hot Spot, similar to a MiFi so that any other WiFi enabled device, like your WiFi only iPad, eReader, or Notebook Computer can access the Internet through your Smartphone.

(For more details on mobile data Internet connections, see my article “Mobile Communications Technology Overview”.)

In many cases the Cellular Carriers such as Verizon, AT&T, and Sprint charge an extra monthly fee for the Tethering capability and a separate Data Plan for the additional usage.  This is especially true if your phone has a grandfathered “Unlimited Data Plan.”  Verizon requires Unlimited Data Plan users to have a separate data plan for Tethering.  With the new Verizon Share Everything Plans, the Data usage and Tethering capability are included and you only pay for the Data you use across all of the devices on your Share Everything Plan.  With other Carriers you may still be required to pay an extra fee for the Tethering capability of your Smartphone.

However, every rule has its’ exceptions.  With certain Smartphones based on the Android mobile operating system, (that would be most phones that are NOT iPhones, Windows based, or Blackberry’s), “unofficially” no additional fee is required.  At Verizon, it is official, based on the FCC Tethering consent decree in July 2012. You need only to browse the Google Play Store, searching on the word, “Tethering” to download an “App” that can turn the Tethering Feature “On” for you.

To clarify:  If you have either a 3G or 4G Tiered Data (like the Verizon Share Everything Plan or AT&T Mobile Share Plan), you can download any number of 3rd Party Apps which will enable your Android to Tether and become Mobile Hot Spot.  Unlimited Data Plan Users technically still need to pay Verizon or AT&T a Tethering Fee and have a separate data plan.  You should call your Cellular Carrier to verify the usage terms of your Agreement.

Be advised that right now some of the Carriers seem to be ignoring this grey area of the usage policy but that is subject to change. Keep in mind that the Carrier will absolutely know if you are sharing your Smartphone Data capability using Tethering – so you have been warned.  It is possible that you could get a call or letter from your mobile phone Carrier stating that you need to pay an additional fee or purchase an additional data plan.

A Special Note for iPhone Users:  If your iPhone supports Tethering, (IOS 4 or later), you may need to use either the USB Charging Cable or pair the Notebook Computer with your iPhone via Bluetooth to use the Internet capability of your phone with your Notebook Computer.  If you have an iPhone5, then you can definitely Tether via WiFi as described above. IOS 6 has a built-in App for turning the iPhone5 in to a Mobile Hot Spot. (Apple prefers to call it a “Personal Hot Spot.”)  If you use the native Apple IOS 6 App, you will definitely need either one of the NEW Mobile Share Plans from AT&T or the one of the NEW Share Everything Plans from Verizon or similar plan from your Carrier.

Hurricane Tech – Powering your Generator – Natural Gas

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It is quite common for Whole House Generators and some Portable Generators to support both Natural Gas and Liquid Propane as Fuel sources.  However, the Generator must be specifically configured to accept either Natural Gas OR Liquid Propane as the fittings and pressures are different for each Fuel type.

If an option, usually the best Fuel choice for your Generator is Utility Supplied Natural Gas.  It is delivered in pipes buried in the ground under high pressure.  Delivery is based on pressure physics and not at all dependent on Electricity.  Natural Gas is stored in huge tanks with floating tops at the Utility.  As the Natural Gas in the tank is consumed by customers, the delicately balanced weight of the top of the tank lowers and forces the Natural Gas out of the tank and in to the Distribution pipes to your home.  The Utility Gas Supply is rarely disrupted during even the worst storms specifically because the delivery system is not dependent on external electrical power and the pipes are mostly underground.

I have never lost my Natural Gas Service due to a Storm.  Check with your local Natural Gas Utility for the history of outages in your area.  For example, in the North Shore of Long Island, NY, Gas Service is virtually 100% reliable.  But in parts of the South Shore of Long Island, due to an antiquated delivery system, every time severe flooding occurs, Gas Service is suspended.

The significant advantage of Natural Gas as a Fuel source for a Generator is that it is a continuous, 24/7 supply – provided that Gas Service has not been disrupted – which as stated for most areas is rare.  Natural Gas is usually the least expensive of all Fuel Options.

The only significant disadvantage of Natural Gas is that it is not necessarily the most efficient of the Fuel sources.  In my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Whole House Generator Option”, I discuss the efficiency differences between Liquid Propane and Natural Gas.  However, the convenience and low cost of Natural Gas far outweigh the marginal loss in Generator efficiency.  A minor issue is also the increased cost of initial installation.  You may need Permits from your town and are usually required to use a Licensed Plumber.  A Town Building Inspector will want to perform a Pressure Test to make sure the connection is at the proper specification.

Hurricane Tech – Powering your Generator – Liquid Propane

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Some Portable Generators can use Liquid Propane (LP) as a Fuel.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator” for information on Portable Generators.)

It is quite common for Whole House Generators to support both Natural Gas and Liquid Propane as Fuel sources.  However, the Generator must be specifically configured to accept either Natural Gas OR Liquid Propane as the fittings and pressures are different for each Fuel type. (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Whole House Generator Option” for information on Whole House Generators.)

Liquid Propane is a slightly better option than Gasoline or Diesel.  Liquid Propane (LP) is available in BBQ Grill Tank size of 20lbs and significantly larger “whole house” 420lb tank sizes – and everything in-between.  The advantage of Liquid Propane is again it is usually readily available at reasonable cost and, at least in the smaller tank sizes of under 50lbs, can be easily transported.  The key advantage is that is supports longer run times between Liquid Propane tank changes than would be achieved between refilling a fuel tank with Gasoline.

The disadvantage of Liquid Propane is similar of that to Gasoline or Diesel:  as the Generator consumes the Liquid Propane, additional supplies must be obtained. However, since it is stored in Gaseous form, the ability for a Propane Distributor to re-fill your portable tanks is not dependent on Electricity but just basic physics:  The pressure in the Distributor Storage Tank is sufficiently great so that when the Storage Tank valve is connected to your tank and opened, your smaller portable tank fills up.  In the case of smaller Liquid Propane tanks, you tend to bring them to a Propane Supplier.  For larger Liquid Propane tanks, the Supplier delivers the Liquid Propane to you in a Truck in the same fashion as a Fuel Oil delivery for a Heating System.  The truck pulls up to your house, extends a long hose, and fills your tank(s).

Small portable Liquid Propane tanks are subject to the same safety handling issues as those that you follow now in safe handling of your BBQ Grill tanks.  In fact, they may be the identical size and style of tank.  The major safety concern arises with larger 100lb, 200lb, and 420lb or larger Liquid Propane tanks that may be permanently installed.  Unlike Natural Gas connections, Liquid Propane connections can be flexible and the fittings and hoses require more frequent inspection to make sure they are in good working order.

A few hundred pounds of Liquid Propane is like storing a “Rocket Engine” next to your house.  We have all seen the results when a large Liquid Propane tank explodes – there is usually nothing left of the house.   The point is simply that as long as proper maintenance and inspections are performed by your Liquid Propane Supplier and/or Licensed Plumber of your tank, fittings, and supply lines, Liquid Propane poses no more risk than other Fuels and can be used safely without issue.

Hurricane Tech – Powering your Generator – Gasoline

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Most Portable Generators use Regular Grade Gasoline, the same type that most automobiles use.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator” for information on Portable Generators.)

The advantages of Gasoline (or Diesel Fuel) are obvious:  it is usually readily available at reasonable cost and can be easily transported.  The disadvantage is that the supply is limited to what is in the Generator Fuel tank or that which you have on hand, stored in Fuel Containers.   The Generator will be continuously burning Gasoline or Diesel Fuel and therefore you must continuously replenish your supply.

Depending on the capacity of the Generator fuel tank and the rate at which Fuel is consumed, you may be re-filling the fuel take as frequently as every four hours.  This can be a real drag but a necessary trade-off for having electricity vs. sitting in the dark.  Your entire day becomes consumed with “feeding the beast” and obtaining a sufficient supply of Gasoline to “Keep the Lights On.”

During the recent Hurricane/Tropical Storm Sandy in the Northeast, a significant majority of Gas Stations lost power and could not pump Fuel.  Those stations that had Power quickly exhausted their Fuel supply or strict limits and rationing were put in place.  This made Gasoline and Diesel a scarce resource during the power outage.

Given the “Liquid Gold” nature of Gasoline during a crisis, it would be a good idea to have a locking shed to store your Fuel Containers or at least a locking cable or chain to weave through the handles to deter and attempt to prevent theft.  Try not to store Fuel Containers in plain site of the road to deter opportunists.

Some General Safety Considerations:

When properly handled and stored, Gasoline is a relatively safe Fuel source.  Although highly flammable, Gasoline tends to just burn and not explode (unless stored under pressure).  It is critical that Gasoline containers be stored away from any ignition sources and in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside.  Gasoline expands and contracts with the changes in temperature so it is important to periodically open the containers to relieve any built up pressure.

It is a good idea to wear heavy duty, chemical resistant rubber gloves when handling Gasoline to protect your skin from any spills while Fueling the Generator.

Some States require “Spill Proof” nozzles like the one displayed in the photo for this article.  The spout usually has a mechanical release that requires the edge of the spout to be in contact with the edge of the tank to allow the flow of fuel.

Make sure the Generator is completely OFF and allow the Generator to cool down for a few minutes PRIOR to re-fueling.

It is a good idea to have a properly rated Class B, for flammable liquids, and Class C for Electrical, Fire Extinguisher when fueling.

Periodically check all Fuel Containers for cracks, leaks, broken rubber seals at the spouts and vent the pressure as necessary.

NEVER SMOKE OR HAVE ANY FLAME NEAR GASOLINE – vapors can ignite.

Hurricane Tech – Powering your Generator – Fuel Choices

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There are a variety of Fuel choices available for both Portable and Whole House Generators including Gasoline, Diesel/Fuel Oil, Liquid Propane, and Natural Gas.  However, the most popular Fuel type for a Portable Generator is Regular Grade Gasoline.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator” for information on Portable Generators.)

It is quite common for Whole House Generators to support both Natural Gas and Liquid Propane as Fuel sources.  However, the Generator must be specifically configured to accept either Natural Gas OR Liquid Propane as the fittings and pressures are different for each Fuel type.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Whole House Generator Option” for information on Whole House Generators.)

Some Portable Generators, known as “Tri-Fuel” models, ship with the ability to support Gasoline, Natural Gas, or Liquid Propane.  This offers the best of all worlds, as these are the three most common Fuel types available.  Again, some mechanical configuration changes are required when switching between Fuel types because the fittings and chambers required to burn Gasoline, a liquid, are different than those required to burn Natural Gas or Liquid Propane, both in gaseous form at time of combustion.

Regardless of the Fuel type selected, ONLY use the Fuel type for which the Generator is specifically configured to accept.  FUELS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.  Failure to use the proper Fuel type for the Generator may result in significant damage to the engine as well as possible explosion and fire.

The advantages and disadvantages of each Fuel type will be discussed in future articles.

Hurricane Tech – The Whole House Generator Option

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In my article, “Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator”, I discuss the benefits and basics of having a Generator to keep critical devices such as Refrigerators, Freezers, Heating, and Communications operational in the case of a Utility Power Outage.  The limitation is that a Portable Generator can only provide electricity to a limited number of devices such as those mentioned above.

If you want the ability to power most every device in your home – as if Utility Power were still present – you need a Whole House Generator that is able to produce a similar number of Amps.  The average home with a 100amp electrical panel would require a Generator capable of producing approximately 12,000watts.  And, with a 200amp panel, the Generator would need to produce approximately 20,000watts.

It is possible to power an entire home with a Generator producing less than the above approximate output wattage ratings if using a “Load Shedding Generator Switch.”  (See my article “Hurricane Tech – The Load Shedding Generator Switch” for an explanation of how this can be accomplished.)

It is more common to use a properly sized Whole House Generator so that the average load on the Generator is between 50% and 70% of rated capacity.  If you have 200amp service and a 20,000watt Whole House Generator, and assuming normal living patterns so that only selected lights and appliances are in use at any one time, the Generator should be operating in that range.  Rarely are Electrical Circuits in any home at capacity but more likely at a similar 50% to 75% of maximum capacity.

The Whole House Generator is usually connected to the Main Electrical Panel of the home using an Automatic “Utility/Generator Transfer Switch” which works with the Generator to sense loss of Utility Power, Turn-On the Generator, and then switch the Power Source of the Electrical Panel to the Generator from Utility Power.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Utility/Generator Transfer Switch”.)

Other than following local Electrical and Plumbing codes and using Licensed professionals for the installation, the other major decision after the sizing capacity is the Fuel Source for the Whole House Generator.  The most popular use Natural Gas (NG), Liquid Propane (LP), while some use Diesel Fuel or Fuel Oil.  The actual output of a Generator can be affected by the Fuel selection.  NG/LP rated Generators will produce approximately 10% less output with NG.  With LP, the output is closer to the actual rating.  A 20,000watt Generator may actually produce 19,500watts with LP but only 17,280watts with NG

A Whole House Generator requires periodic testing/”exercising” and maintenance.  Typically, a Whole House Generator will turn itself on once per week and “exercise” for approximately 20 minutes.  Like any other Engine, Oil needs to be changed.  For most Whole House Generators this is approximately every 100 hours or annually depending on usage.  IT IS CRITICAL TO FOLLOW ALL MANUFACTURERS MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDATIONS.  Failure to do so may cause the Generator to fail or not to start when it is needed most during a Power Outage.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  CONSULT WITH A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN AND GENERATOR PROFESSIONAL TO CONFIGURE AND SELECT A PROPERLY SIZED WHOLE HOUSE GENERATOR SUITABLE FOR YOUR NEEDS.  ALWAYS USE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN AND LICENSED PLUMBER TO PERFORM THE INSTALLATION.  FAILURE TO INSTALL A GENERATOR, TRANSFER SWITCH, NATURAL GAS OR LIQUID PROPANE CONNECTIONS CORRECTLY MAY RESULT IN FIRE, EXPLOSION, SERIOUS INJURY, OR DEATH.

Hurricane Tech – The Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch

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A Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch allows you to do more with less.

A standard Generator Transfer Switch provides a one to one relationship for the Main Electrical Panel Circuit being protected by the Generator.  (To learn more about the technology, read my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Utility/Generator Transfer Switch”)

A Load Shedding Generator Switch assumes that the demand by protected circuits is less than the maximum potential load thereby allowing more Circuits to be protected.  It does this by splitting the Circuits in to two or more groups of Critical/Priority Circuits and Non-Critical/Secondary Circuits.   Under normal operating conditions, assuming total sustained operating load is within the capacity output rating of the Generator (i.e. the Generator is producing enough electricity to power all of the devices presently turned “On”), all Primary and Secondary Circuits receive electricity from the Generator.

When a Primary Circuit demands additional electricity, such as when Heating System circulator pump or fan turns on, the draw of electricity may be greater than that being produced by the Generator.  To mitigate the problem, the Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch will automatically “Shed the Load” or shut-down Secondary, Non-Critical Circuits such as lights or perhaps another high wattage appliance like a dishwasher to re-balance the available electricity from the Generator and provide it to the Primary, Critical Circuits.

Here is why it works:  The average electrical circuit in a home is rated at a maximum of 15 amps.  But rarely does the actual sustained load, (the amount of electricity required by the plugged in devices while “On”), approach the rated maximum of 15 amps.   And certainly the surge load, (additional electricity that is required when a device is turned “On”), does not exceed it.  If either the sustained or surge turn-on load exceeded the rated 15 amps, the Circuit Breaker would be tripping to “Off” frequently.  When this does happen, you remove devices, (un-plug them), such as that 1000 watt Hair Dryer and you “shed load” by turning off other devices on the same Circuit until the Circuit Breaker stops tripping to “Off.”

The same exact principle and math apply to the Main Electrical Panel in your home or office, which is usually rated at 100amps or 200amps.   As noted above, an individual Circuit Breaker may trip.  But rarely does anyone have a Main 100amp or 200amp Breaker trip (to “Off”) because the whole house load requirement, (total amount of electricity in use), never gets close to the maximum rating.

The Load Shedding Generator Switch takes advantage of this principle by allocating the total amount of electricity being produced by the Generator to all connected Circuits on a Priority basis determined by Critical and Non-Critical Groups of Circuits.  Instead of you having to be explicitly mindful of which devices are “On” or “Off” and personally managing the available electricity from the Generator, the Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch can do it for you.

NOTE:  Keep in mind that unless you have a Generator capable of powering your entire home or office, one where the Generator output capacity closely matches the rating of the Main Electrical Panel at 100amps or 200amps, that the primary purpose of Emergency Generator Power is for Life Safety and Critical Services.  Non-Critical Circuits and Devices will need to be managed or remain “Off” during the Power Outage.

With a standard Generator Transfer Switch, the Emergency Load Demand, (amount of electricity and Amps) required to run these critical Circuits will be determined in advance and is fixed.  The same is basically true for a Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch except that you have the added benefit of adding and allocating power Non-Critical Circuits – if excess Generator power is available.

Put simply, I definitely want my Living Room TV, FiOS Router, Set-Top Box operational along with my Refrigerator, Freezer, Heating System, and Electronic Start Gas Oven as a “Critical Circuits.”  If after all other Critical Circuit Loads are met, there is excess Generator capacity available, I would like to be able to power up the TV and related electronics in the Master Bedroom.  But as soon as a Critical Circuit needs more power (like when the Circulator Pumps to the Heating System kick “On”), it is O.K. for the Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch to cut power to the Master Bedroom TV to meet the demand and allocate the available Generator Power to the Heating System.

As a reminder, when running on Generator “Emergency Power”, you should be mindful of what devices are “On” or “Off” at all times.  If you do not have the Generator capacity to “light up the entire house like Times Square” then you need to manage the available capacity either manually or with a Load Shedding Generator Transfer Switch.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  It is CRITICAL to consult with a Licensed Electrician to determine the proper device and appliance load demand along with Circuit ratings and configuration.  A Transfer Switch is connected to LIVE ELECTRICTY provided from either Utility Power or a Generator.  FAILURE TO FOLLOW MANUFACTURES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND MAXIMUM LOAD RATINGS MAY RESULT IN FIRE, SERIOUS INJURY, SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK, OR DEATH.

Hurricane Tech – The Utility/Generator Transfer Switch

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An Extension cord is suitable for connecting the Generator to an individual device such as a TV set or major appliance but it limits you to devices that would normally be connected (plugged-in) to an electrical wall outlet.  If you want to connect a Generator to devices that are “hard-wired” to the Electrical Panel in your home or office, such as a Heating/Hot Water or Cooling System, or use the wiring in your home instead of Extension Cords, you need a “Utility/Generator Transfer Switch.”

This is a special type of electrical panel that has two inputs:  one for the normal electricity feed from the Power Company and one for the electricity feed from the Generator.  The output is a series of Circuit Breakers that replace the selected critical Circuits in the Main Electrical Panel that you want to provide Generator Power to in the event of a Utility outage.  Think the letter “Y”.  A Switch determines if Utility Power or the Generator is powering the Circuits.

Utility/Generator Transfer Switches come in two flavors:  Manual and Automatic.  As the names imply, the Manual Transfer Switch requires you to physically “Switch” the Power Source connection from the Utility Company to the Generator.  With an Automatic Transfer Switch, once the Transfer Switch senses a Loss of Electrical Power from the Utility, it waits approximately 30 seconds, and performs a series of tests to make sure there is a true “power outage” and it flips the Power Source from Utility Power to Generator Power.  (When power is restored from the Utility Company, you guessed it, with a Manual Switch you have to flip it back yourself while an Automatic Switch figures out the Utility Power is back and seamless flips the Switch for you along with powering down the Generator.)

An Automatic Transfer Switch only makes sense if you have an Electric Start Portable Generator or Whole House Generator that can be started “Automatically” upon sensing loss of Power from the Utility AND if the Automatic Transfer Switch is COMPATIBLE with the particular Generator configuration you have installed.

The amount of Generator Power you have available – Portable (usually under 8,500 watts) or Whole House (usually 15,000 to 20,000 watts), will determine the number of Circuits the Transfer Switch will support.   A Utility/Generator Transfer Switch for a Portable Generator will usually have a four to six circuits.

For a Whole House Generator, there may be almost as many circuits as on a regular electrical panel.  This will usually be ten or more Circuit’s.  When a Whole House Generator has sufficient capacity to power every device in the home or office, there may be a Single 100amp or 200amp Circuit Breaker which will exactly match the capacity of the Main Electrical Panel.

The Fuzzy Math Example:  A Portable Generator which produces approximate 8,500 Surge Watts at 120v Output will provide approximately 70 amps of “surge/start-up” power and 45 amps of sustained “full load” power.  A Utility/Generator Transfer Switch that has four 15amp Circuits which is a maximum load of 60amps is the proper size for the Portable Generator in this example.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  Check with a LICENSED ELECTRICIAN for proper sizing and installation of any Utility/Generator Transfer Switch.  Failure to follow proper installation instructions may result in serious injury or death.  A Utility/Generator Transfer Switch is being connected to LIVE 120 volt ELECTICIAL POWER.  Use a professional, licensed electrician, preferably one with an explicit knowledge of Generator Power Systems to perform the work.

You are probably wondering, “I have way more than four circuits in my home.  What is the point of a Utility/Generator Transfer Switch that only supports four circuits?”

Answer:  Remember in the case of MOST Portable Generators and even a smaller Whole House Generators (Sub 15,000 watts), the purpose is to provide EMERGENCY and LIFE SAFETY power to CRITICAL Circuits in the home or office.  This would include the Refrigerator, Freezer, Heating System, Communications (TV, Internet, Phone), some Lighting and perhaps the Electric Ignition Starters for your Gas Oven, Stove, or Hot Water Heater and other critical Electrical Appliances.

To that end, the Circuit Breakers in the Utility/Generator Transfer Switch REPLACE the equivalent ones in the Main Electrical Panel.  When Utility Power is present, the Transfer Switch acts like a Sub-Electrical Panel.  The Circuits receive Utility Power exactly as if these Circuits were still in the Main Electrical Panel.

During a Power Outage, after the Power Source Switch is set to “Generator”, this entire Sub-Panel is COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED from the Utility Power and the power source is the Electricity from the Generator.

CRITICAL SAFETY NOTE:  The most important function of the Utility/Generator Transfer Switch is to connect EITHER UTILITY POWER OR GENERATOR POWER to the Circuits.  THE TRANSFER SWITCH ASSURES THAT ONLY ONE POWER SOURCE IS ACTIVE AT A TIME.  NEVER ATTEMPT TO BY-PASS THIS CRITICAL SAFETY FUNCTION.   Having both Utility Power AND Generator Power active on the same Circuit at the same time may result in Fire, Serious Injury, and Death.

Hurricane Tech – Extension Cords and Portable Generators

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When using a Portable Generator it is critical to have properly sized and grounded extension cords.  Portable Generators come with a variety of Outlet configurations depending on the Wattage rating and Amperage (Amp) output of the Generator.

At the minimum, all usually have at least one or two 15amp rated electrical outlets – similar to the type that you find on the wall in your home or office.  The next configuration is one or two 20amp rated outlets (the type your Refrigerator or Freezer or Air Conditioner might use) sometimes combined with either a 20amp or 30amp Twist-Lock outlet (used to connect to a multi-outlet box or Utility/Generator Power Transfer Switch.)  The take-away is that each Generator has its’ own outlet configuration and requires some thought as to how to connect it to the equipment in your home or office.

The important thing to remember when selecting the proper size extension cord for your Generator is that the higher the Amp output of the outlet, the thicker the copper wire in the extension cord needs to be to safely carry the electricity in to your home.  When selecting the correct gauge for an extension cord, the lower the gauge number the thicker the wire and the greater the capacity of the wire.  A 12 gauge extension cord can handle a greater capacity (Amp load) than a 14 gauge extension cord.  A 14 gauge extension cord more than a 16 gauge extension cord.

A 12 gauge grounded (three prong) extension cord can safely carry a 15 amp load up to 100 feet.  15amps is the most common circuit capacity of the electrical outlets in your home.  A 14 gauge grounded extension cord can only carry a 13 amp load the same 100 feet.

Higher amperage ratings may require 10 gauge cords depending on the distance. No Residential Home application should use an extension cord of more than 150’ without Professional guidance from a Licensed Electrician.

Every Underwriter Laboratories (UL Listed) extension cord is clearly marked with the gauge, maximum number of Watts and Amps it is safely capable of carrying.  NEVER EXCEED THE MARKED RATINGS OF THE EXTENSION CORD!

Try to use the shortest length extension cord possible to improve efficiency of the transmission of electricity from the Generator to the device to be powered.

If the generator has a 20 amp or a 30 amp Twist-Lock connector, this requires a special Generator Power Cord.  These cords will usually have the Twist-Lock connector for the Generator side and a multi-outlet box containing one to four 15amp or 20amp outlets on the other side. These special generator cords are usually 10 gauge or larger, depending on the length.  (Remember, larger wire has a lower gauge number.)    From this multi-outlet box, you can plug in standard extension cords of varying lengths to reach the equipment you want to power inside your home.

Any extension cord should be rated for Outdoor use because a Portable Generator will ALWAYS be outside AWAY from the house (to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.)   If you live in cold climate, I strongly suggest investing in the “Cold Rated” cords that stay flexible when the temperatures drop.  Most Cold Rated cords come with the added benefit of heavy duty, resistant jackets that will hold up to rough garage floors, getting kicked around or walked over, and the elements.

If you need to convert a single outlet extension cord in to three outlets, use a specially made 12 gauge “pigtail” that has a 15amp heavy duty plug on one side and a heavy duty three outlet receptacle on the other side separated by a short length of heavy duty extension cord.  Standard three-to-one outlet adapters are made of plastic and may crack if stepped on as they are meant to be plugged in to a wall and NOT an extension cord.

Another nice feature to look for is cords that have an LED light in the outlet end to let you know that the cord is “energized” and “live” with electricity.  Given the fact that the Generator my run out of fuel and stop or be off for maintenance, the LED light gives 100% Positive feedback regarding the status of the power to your equipment.

In the case of expensive electronics like a Flat Panel TV, the Set-top Box, Internet Router or a Computer, connect an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) to a 12 gauge extension cord to the Generator.  This provides added protection from surges and filters the power.  See my article “Hurricane Tech – Uninterruptible Power Supplies”

Personally, I always use 12 gauge, heavy duty, winter rated, grounded extension cords for an added margin of safety in 10’, 25’, 50’ and 100’ lengths.  By using a cord rated for the maximum 15amps, I am matching the rating of the Circuit Breaker on the Generator and I don’t have to worry about the extension cord failing.  The Circuit Breaker on the Generator should trip before the cord fails.  Since 15amps is the size of most household circuits, if I match the equipment I would normally plug in to a wall outlet to my 15amp Generator Circuit, everything is the same and therefore properly sized.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  Periodically feel the extension cords to see if they are cold, warm, or hot.  If an extension cord is warm or hot, that means that you are exceeding the carrying capacity of the extension cord and should immediately un-plug it from the Generator or Power Source (Utility Power.)  Get a higher amp rated extension cord.  FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN RISK OF FIRE.