Jason Palmer, CPA, CITP

Cyber Insurance Auditing

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Hurricane Tech – The Whole House Generator Option

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In my article, “Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator”, I discuss the benefits and basics of having a Generator to keep critical devices such as Refrigerators, Freezers, Heating, and Communications operational in the case of a Utility Power Outage.  The limitation is that a Portable Generator can only provide electricity to a limited number of devices such as those mentioned above.

If you want the ability to power most every device in your home – as if Utility Power were still present – you need a Whole House Generator that is able to produce a similar number of Amps.  The average home with a 100amp electrical panel would require a Generator capable of producing approximately 12,000watts.  And, with a 200amp panel, the Generator would need to produce approximately 20,000watts.

It is possible to power an entire home with a Generator producing less than the above approximate output wattage ratings if using a “Load Shedding Generator Switch.”  (See my article “Hurricane Tech – The Load Shedding Generator Switch” for an explanation of how this can be accomplished.)

It is more common to use a properly sized Whole House Generator so that the average load on the Generator is between 50% and 70% of rated capacity.  If you have 200amp service and a 20,000watt Whole House Generator, and assuming normal living patterns so that only selected lights and appliances are in use at any one time, the Generator should be operating in that range.  Rarely are Electrical Circuits in any home at capacity but more likely at a similar 50% to 75% of maximum capacity.

The Whole House Generator is usually connected to the Main Electrical Panel of the home using an Automatic “Utility/Generator Transfer Switch” which works with the Generator to sense loss of Utility Power, Turn-On the Generator, and then switch the Power Source of the Electrical Panel to the Generator from Utility Power.  (See my article, “Hurricane Tech – The Utility/Generator Transfer Switch”.)

Other than following local Electrical and Plumbing codes and using Licensed professionals for the installation, the other major decision after the sizing capacity is the Fuel Source for the Whole House Generator.  The most popular use Natural Gas (NG), Liquid Propane (LP), while some use Diesel Fuel or Fuel Oil.  The actual output of a Generator can be affected by the Fuel selection.  NG/LP rated Generators will produce approximately 10% less output with NG.  With LP, the output is closer to the actual rating.  A 20,000watt Generator may actually produce 19,500watts with LP but only 17,280watts with NG

A Whole House Generator requires periodic testing/”exercising” and maintenance.  Typically, a Whole House Generator will turn itself on once per week and “exercise” for approximately 20 minutes.  Like any other Engine, Oil needs to be changed.  For most Whole House Generators this is approximately every 100 hours or annually depending on usage.  IT IS CRITICAL TO FOLLOW ALL MANUFACTURERS MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDATIONS.  Failure to do so may cause the Generator to fail or not to start when it is needed most during a Power Outage.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  CONSULT WITH A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN AND GENERATOR PROFESSIONAL TO CONFIGURE AND SELECT A PROPERLY SIZED WHOLE HOUSE GENERATOR SUITABLE FOR YOUR NEEDS.  ALWAYS USE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN AND LICENSED PLUMBER TO PERFORM THE INSTALLATION.  FAILURE TO INSTALL A GENERATOR, TRANSFER SWITCH, NATURAL GAS OR LIQUID PROPANE CONNECTIONS CORRECTLY MAY RESULT IN FIRE, EXPLOSION, SERIOUS INJURY, OR DEATH.

Hurricane Tech – Extension Cords and Portable Generators

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When using a Portable Generator it is critical to have properly sized and grounded extension cords.  Portable Generators come with a variety of Outlet configurations depending on the Wattage rating and Amperage (Amp) output of the Generator.

At the minimum, all usually have at least one or two 15amp rated electrical outlets – similar to the type that you find on the wall in your home or office.  The next configuration is one or two 20amp rated outlets (the type your Refrigerator or Freezer or Air Conditioner might use) sometimes combined with either a 20amp or 30amp Twist-Lock outlet (used to connect to a multi-outlet box or Utility/Generator Power Transfer Switch.)  The take-away is that each Generator has its’ own outlet configuration and requires some thought as to how to connect it to the equipment in your home or office.

The important thing to remember when selecting the proper size extension cord for your Generator is that the higher the Amp output of the outlet, the thicker the copper wire in the extension cord needs to be to safely carry the electricity in to your home.  When selecting the correct gauge for an extension cord, the lower the gauge number the thicker the wire and the greater the capacity of the wire.  A 12 gauge extension cord can handle a greater capacity (Amp load) than a 14 gauge extension cord.  A 14 gauge extension cord more than a 16 gauge extension cord.

A 12 gauge grounded (three prong) extension cord can safely carry a 15 amp load up to 100 feet.  15amps is the most common circuit capacity of the electrical outlets in your home.  A 14 gauge grounded extension cord can only carry a 13 amp load the same 100 feet.

Higher amperage ratings may require 10 gauge cords depending on the distance. No Residential Home application should use an extension cord of more than 150’ without Professional guidance from a Licensed Electrician.

Every Underwriter Laboratories (UL Listed) extension cord is clearly marked with the gauge, maximum number of Watts and Amps it is safely capable of carrying.  NEVER EXCEED THE MARKED RATINGS OF THE EXTENSION CORD!

Try to use the shortest length extension cord possible to improve efficiency of the transmission of electricity from the Generator to the device to be powered.

If the generator has a 20 amp or a 30 amp Twist-Lock connector, this requires a special Generator Power Cord.  These cords will usually have the Twist-Lock connector for the Generator side and a multi-outlet box containing one to four 15amp or 20amp outlets on the other side. These special generator cords are usually 10 gauge or larger, depending on the length.  (Remember, larger wire has a lower gauge number.)    From this multi-outlet box, you can plug in standard extension cords of varying lengths to reach the equipment you want to power inside your home.

Any extension cord should be rated for Outdoor use because a Portable Generator will ALWAYS be outside AWAY from the house (to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.)   If you live in cold climate, I strongly suggest investing in the “Cold Rated” cords that stay flexible when the temperatures drop.  Most Cold Rated cords come with the added benefit of heavy duty, resistant jackets that will hold up to rough garage floors, getting kicked around or walked over, and the elements.

If you need to convert a single outlet extension cord in to three outlets, use a specially made 12 gauge “pigtail” that has a 15amp heavy duty plug on one side and a heavy duty three outlet receptacle on the other side separated by a short length of heavy duty extension cord.  Standard three-to-one outlet adapters are made of plastic and may crack if stepped on as they are meant to be plugged in to a wall and NOT an extension cord.

Another nice feature to look for is cords that have an LED light in the outlet end to let you know that the cord is “energized” and “live” with electricity.  Given the fact that the Generator my run out of fuel and stop or be off for maintenance, the LED light gives 100% Positive feedback regarding the status of the power to your equipment.

In the case of expensive electronics like a Flat Panel TV, the Set-top Box, Internet Router or a Computer, connect an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) to a 12 gauge extension cord to the Generator.  This provides added protection from surges and filters the power.  See my article “Hurricane Tech – Uninterruptible Power Supplies”

Personally, I always use 12 gauge, heavy duty, winter rated, grounded extension cords for an added margin of safety in 10’, 25’, 50’ and 100’ lengths.  By using a cord rated for the maximum 15amps, I am matching the rating of the Circuit Breaker on the Generator and I don’t have to worry about the extension cord failing.  The Circuit Breaker on the Generator should trip before the cord fails.  Since 15amps is the size of most household circuits, if I match the equipment I would normally plug in to a wall outlet to my 15amp Generator Circuit, everything is the same and therefore properly sized.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:  Periodically feel the extension cords to see if they are cold, warm, or hot.  If an extension cord is warm or hot, that means that you are exceeding the carrying capacity of the extension cord and should immediately un-plug it from the Generator or Power Source (Utility Power.)  Get a higher amp rated extension cord.  FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN RISK OF FIRE.

Hurricane Tech – Keeping the Lights On with a Portable Generator

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“You never really appreciate something until it is gone” has never been truer then when the Power goes out and you are sitting in the dark.   Fully charged notebook computers, cell phones, iPads, tablet computers, battery backed up telephone service, uninterruptable power supplies, and flashlights will only get you so far.  When the batteries run down, your technology and communications go dark and without electricity, it might as well be the Stone Age.

Without Power, the food in your Refrigerator and Freezer is at risk to spoil.  Even if you have a heating system that uses a pilot light, without electricity, there is nothing to power the circulator pumps (hydrostatic baseboard or radiator) or fan (forced hot air.)  Many modern day gas ovens and gas stoves have shifted to electronic ignition start which also requires electricity.  At least with a gas stove burner, you can light it with a match but usually not the gas oven.

One saving grace of Natural Gas is that if you have a gas fired hot water heater with a pilot light, you will usually have Hot Water assuming your water is gravity fed and does not rely on a pump as it does in many apartment buildings.

Solution – A portable generator which runs on either gasoline or liquid propane.  Gasoline powered portable generators are the most common and are the focus of this article.

With a reasonably sized portable generator rated at 5,500 watts or more (preferably with an approximate 50% surge starting watts rating of about 8,500 watts), you can easily power a Refrigerator, Freezer, Heating System, a Flat Panel 46” TV Set, (up to 3,000 watts for these four items), Cable/FiOS Set-top Box/Internet Modem/Router, a Computer, charge your portable electronic devices, and a few lights (which add another 1,500 to 2,000 watts for these remaining items.)  This is an estimate based on a combined average continuous wattage load (the amount of electricity required to keep the devices on and running) and surge starting watts which is the additional energy required for the compressors in the Refrigerator and Freezer or fan motor in the Heating System to start.

I know this from my personal experience as during the aftermath of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Sandy, I had a Generac Wheelhouse 5,500 watt Generator with 8,500 surge watts and had all of the above running for eight days.

IMPORTANT:  A portable generator is an emergency, temporary installation and you should only connect the minimum number of devices necessary for “life safety” and bare bones comfort.  A 5,500 watt portable generator provides only about 10% to 15% of the amount of electricity normally provided to your home by the Utility Company.

NOTE:  The average amount of watts required to run various appliances and devices can usually be found on a chart in the user’s manual of the generator or on the Internet.

My generator had a five gallon fuel tank.  With all of the above running mostly 24/7, the burn rate of fuel was approximately one gallon every 1.5 to 2 hours.  More specifically, with the tank topped off so its’ actual capacity was slightly more than five gallons, I had to add fuel about every ten hours.  That is a burn rate of about 96 gallons per seven days. (7 days x 24 hours x 1.75 hours/gallon.)

Most quality portable generators are rated to run “24 hours straight, 7 days a week” without issue – provided that proper maintenance is performed.  It is usually recommended that the Oil level be checked at least daily and be changed every 24 to a maximum of 48 hours especially when running the generator continuously – as I did during the power outage.  Selecting the proper grade and viscosity of Oil for winter (in my case a 5W30) or summer (an SAE 30) can make all the difference between the generator starting on the “first pull” (if pull start) or “the press of the starter button” (if electric start) or not starting at all.  (Tip:  If your generator fuel tank has a vent cap, it should be open when operating.)

NOTE: Each engine manufacture has specific recommendations for Oil and Fluids.  Make sure to READ THE MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the proper fluid specifications!

Observation and math become very important in “keeping the lights on” and maintaining peak performance of the generator.  You need to track the run-time which is the number of hours the generator is on for proper maintenance, the fuel consumption which is the amount of gas the generator is burning per hour based on the load, (the amount of electricity your home is using), and the amount of gas you have remaining to determine how long you actually can “keep the lights on.”   Load will not be constant and the amount of fuel the generator is burning can vary throughout the day depending on what devices are in use and being powered by the generator.

To put this in perspective, for my house, each day required approximately 13 to 15 gallons of gasoline which is three, five gallon containers per day.  Given that a Storm can last a full day or two, and that you may not be able to get out the day after the Storm, as was the case with Sandy, you would need to have about 36 gallons of gas on-hand to last the three days.

Yes, that means that I had seven, five gallon containers filled with gasoline on the day before Hurricane/Tropical Storm Sandy arrived. The Long Island Power Authority made it clear that not only were they virtually guaranteeing the loss of power but that “power could be out for up to five or ten days.”  Keep in mind, as the Northeast experienced; when you don’t have power, it is highly probably that the gas station does not have power either.  And, to make matters worse, the Refineries, Storage Depots, and Delivery System Infrastructure were all affected by the Storm compounding the crisis.

Again as seen in the Northeast after both Hurricane Irene and Hurricane/Tropical Storm Sandy, many people did not heed the warning that Power would be disrupted and waited until AFTER they lost power to go looking for a generator.  Obviously, there were shortages of generators, gas cans, and the most important commodity, the gas itself.

If you cannot evacuate to a Shelter and you cannot afford have all of your food spoil, the time to purchase a portable generator is BEFORE the Storm.  Make sure you have enough fuel for two to three days along with Oil and Fluids to maintain the generator properly.

Having a portable generator can make a widespread power outage an inconvenience instead of a potentially serious life threatening situation.

CRITICAL SAFETY NOTE:  Connecting devices to the generator that have standard electrical plugs, the type that fit in to the outlets in your home, can be done safely with properly rated 12 gauge grounded (three prong) extension cords.  Just unplug the device from the wall outlet and plug in to the extension cord. Follow all manufacturer instructions and load ratings!

CONNECTING YOUR HEATING SYSTEM MAY REQUIRE THE ASSISTANCE OF A LICENSED, PROFESSIONAL ELECTRICIAN TO INSTALL A SPECIAL TRANSFER SWITCH.  FAILURE TO MAKE PROPER AND SAFE CONNECTIONS TO THE GENERATOR MAY RESULT IN RISK OF FIRE, SERIOUS INJURY, OR DEATH.